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  Project CJ-7
Jeep Project CJ-7

An ongoing Budgeted Rebuild/Build up of a Rock Crawling Machine.

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2007 Jeep Wrangler JK
Jeep Wrangler JK Specs

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So you want Real Power brakes 
in your Jeep?
   --- UPDATED --- See Below...

Submitted by Keith Kreutzer
(His rig is pictured above)

Please send your questions/comments to:

It's simple, Use a booster from a'94 GM pickup, I'm not certain what else they fit onto or what the as new Part Number is but that's what the subject booster is off of. I believe that all the late model GM Truck boosters that have the "four stud pattern" on the back are the same.

Stuff you might have to buy:

  • Power Brake booster off of a mid '90's GM 1/2 ton pickup with four studs on the back.
  • Good quality 3/8 female rod end.
  • Real 3/8 24 "jam Nut"
  • 3/8 24 Threading Die.

The modification goes like this:

I got my booster from the local Wrecking yard for $50 with a Master Cylinder. I didn't use the master cylinder but I could if I had to. Take your master cylinder loose from the booster but don't loosen the brake lines, carefully move it aside so you can remove your old booster. Set the booster aside for future measurements.

On to your new booster:

The Actuation rod on the back of the new booster is too long so cut it off just about an inch or so past the eye that pins it to the pedal, this may seem too long but wait I'll tell you why next, the eye is HARD so don't get too close to it or you'll ruin lots of hack saw blades. Find a 3/8 24 die and run it down the shaft as far as is possible. gently hold the rod with Vise grips while cutting the threads. When you think you've gone as far as you can put the vise grips on the other end of the rod ( out at the end you cut off ) and keep making threads, it's good to use a die that has a hex type body as opposed to a round body so you can use a socket wrench to thread the shaft down deeper than you could with a die handle. Run the die off the threads, but just before you reach the end that you smashed with the vise grip, cut the end off, by doing this I found that you can use soft jawed pliers to hold the shaft as you run the die off the rest of the way. Now test fit the 3/8 24 female rod end to get the length of the actuating rod the same as the Jeep booster, cut off a little at a time, file it down, get it right as you don't have too much room for error. once you have it right screw on the 3/8 24 jam nut, it's important to use a "jam nut" as they are thinner than regular nuts and you'll need the space. Lock it all down with lock tight and you're done with this part.

Next you'll need to open up the holes on the factory booster mount gismo, just about .100" or .050" per side. The stud pattern is the same up and down but the bolts are bigger ( save the nuts from the wrecking yard ).  Now loosen the booster bracket a little bit from the fire wall squeeze the brackets together ( about a 1/4" total ) and slip in your new booster Tighten the booster first then the bracket to the fire wall, put the pin with the aggravating little clip back in and test for binding ( it shouldn't it's a really loose mechanism anyway ) put on your master cylinder and off you go, and you didn't even have to bleed the brakes. Did I forget to talk about the vacuum line? Ahh you knew about that !! Be careful now you should have real power brakes !!

I had no clearance problems with the hood, my booster assembly is raised about 3/4 to get a little more leverage and the new bigger booster still clears. It's amazing the difference. With 35 inch tall tires I feel like I'm in a Porsche ( when I'm on the brakes going straight )



While using my brakes in this arrangement I found that they where just too touchy. If I wasn't careful I found could easily lock up all four Swampers at 50 MPH, not a desirable thing! At least not that easy. So since then I've omitted the Rod End in favor of a handmade piece that I could make shorter that the rod end, allowing for a little bit more freeplay in the pedal. I simply took a good piece of steel 4140 about a 1/2 inch wide an inch tall and about 1 1/4 long I drilled into it the long way I tapped it 3/8 -24 and drilled it for an 8-32 set screw. Then I drilled a 3/8 hole across and replaced the Rod End with my piece o' metal lock tighted and set screwed it all together. Now the brakes are a bit easier to manage and I still have enough power to lock up the tires at high speeds It's just way easier to modulate them so I won't now.


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Dick Cepek's 2008 F-250 Super Duty Project Vehicle – Project CRUSHER
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Off-Road Lights
by LightForce Product Review / Installation.
from Off-Road Lights


Black Diamond Suspension Lift instal

 for CJ-7

Ramp Travel Index
RTI / Ramp Travel Index What it is and how to calculate it, with and without the ramp.

Offroaders Guide to Gearing up for Offroad
From Basic Equipment to Well Equipped.  An extensive list guide to help you prepare your vehicle for the offroad.

Do it Yourself
Detriot EZ Locker Install  in a 92 Toyota 8" rear

For all the Jeep
Fans out there!

Department of Cheap Tricks and Useful Tips
Ultra-Cool Hand Throttle for Free!

Jeep V8 Swap Tips

The Exploding Clutch

Radiator Protection using 6 bucks worth of material

Cracked Under Pressure - Fixing a smashed fingernail

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Home-built Saginaw Gearbox Brace for the cost of lunch!

Ammo Box Storage - Mounting Them for Quick Disconnect

Home-built Serious Skid-Plate protection for the Oil Pan for under 20 bucks!


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