I questioned whether this step was necessary because I would be working on the other side of the case while this gear would be clanking around in the case.  It might be possible to squeeze it into the case after the other gears in the next few steps are in.  I tries and was able to do it but it might be tight for some.  Probably better to get it in now.

I used a piece of pipe to pound the bearing on while supporting it from under with a block of wood.  If you choose to do it like this, make sure you are hitting the inner area of the bearing, not the outer ring.  In fact, it's probably better to do it the right way (whatever that is), not like this.

I added a little silicone gasket sealant and a drop of medium locktite to each bolt just to make sure it didn't back off.  I've occasionally dealt with issues that arose from bolts backing out.  A little Locktite is just a drop of insurance against that.

You may have to tilt the transfer case to slide interlock to the right.

Watch you don't lose the ball if it slipped off the punch!  This is where the towel comes in handy.  Things don't roll well on a towel.

The primary way I know of to pack the intermediate gear with the new rollers and spacers is to use a dowel rod that is just as wide as the intermediate gear itself.  This is placed inside the intermediate gear and rollers and spacers are inserted and packed with heavy grease to hold them in place.

The diameter of the dowel rod is approximately as wide as the intermediate shaft itself.  I hunted around the shed for a donor garden tool and found an old rake that had a handle that was approximately the right width.  I then hacked off a piece at the right length.  I forget what the length and diameter was but you can measure this from your intermediate gear and intermediate shaft. 

I'd like to say that I used this ugly hunk of metal to the right.  It's a slug that was shot out of an A-10 Warthog.  I got it from the Blue Angels at the Reading Air Show years ago.  It was the right diameter but it was just a hair too long to clear the thrust washers.  I didn't want to grind the slug down so I used the dowel rod instead.

...anyway....

Start by placing the dowel rod into the intermediate gear and packing some grease into the opening around the dowel.  Press a washer into the grease, around the dowel.  Add more grease.

Then start pressing needle bearings into the grease, pushing the washer down slowly.  I believe the magic number of needle bearing is 24.  There should be NO gaps between the needle bearings.

With 24 in, add more grease then another washer.

Add more grease and then repeat the step above and press 24 more needle bearings into the grease.

Follow this up with a little more grease and the last washer.

Before you lower this into the case, MAKE SURE the dowel is not protruding beyond the intermediate gear.  It has to slide past the thrust washers and it's a tight tolerance.

Using a plastic dead-blow mallet, drive intermediate shaft into intermediate gear.  Start from the back of the case and drive the shaft so the keyed end is out.  Position the shaft so the intermediate shaft lock plate will align with the threaded hole in the case.  Forget about rotating it later.  It won't happen.  Align it first before driving it in. 

Driving the shaft in is tough work.  DO NOT use a metal hammer unless it's one of those lead hammers specifically designed to do this.  A metal BFH like a 5 pound steel mallet will damage the shaft.  It got pretty tough and I ended up using a piece of wood against the shaft and I'd strike the piece of wood with a heavier hammer but not hit the shaft itself directly.  It helps to brace the case from behind as you drive the shaft in.

As you drive the intermediate shaft into the case, the dowel rod will be driven out, leaving the bearings in place.

Eventually I was near the end of the shaft.  At this point a rubber o-ring goes on the shaft. and I continue to drive the shaft in.  This of course splits the o-ring leaving a thin sliver of rubber in my hand.  Hope it don't leak.