Teralow's
directions start off with sliding the front output
shaft shift rod partially into case. Since I already had my shift
rod in place (couldn't get it out), I skipped over these first three
steps.
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![](images/dana20/Img_4587_small.jpg) |
1. |
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Slide front output
shaft shift rod partially into case.
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2. |
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Place front output
shaft shift fork on rod with bolt hole aligned with countersunk hole in
rod.
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3. |
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Install setscrew and
tighten to 14 foot-pounds torque.
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4. |
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Next I placed the rear output shaft
shift fork in proper position in case. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4588_small.jpg) |
5. |
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The I set the new rear output
shaft sliding gear on shift fork with slot in gear facing rear of case.
I questioned whether this step was necessary because
I would be working on the other side of the case while this gear would be
clanking around in the case. It might be possible to squeeze it into
the case after the other gears in the next few steps are in. I tries
and was able to do it but it might be tight for some. Probably
better to get it in now. |
6. |
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Install rear bearing
(Teralow calls it a "cone and
roller") on front output shaft.
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![](images/dana20/Img_4589_small.jpg) |
7. |
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Insert front output
shaft gears, thrust washers, and bearing in place and slide output shaft
through both gears. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4590_small.jpg) |
8. |
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Install front cone and
roller on front output shaft. I used a piece
of pipe to pound the bearing on while supporting it from under with a
block of wood. If you choose to do it like this, make sure you are
hitting the inner area of the bearing, not the outer ring. In fact,
it's probably better to do it the right way (whatever that is), not like
this. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4591_small.jpg) |
9. |
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Install front and rear
front output shaft bearing cups. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4592_small.jpg) |
10. |
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I installed the rear bearing
shims and cover plate, and tightened the cover plate attaching bolts to 30
foot-pounds.
I added a little silicone gasket sealant and a
drop of medium locktite to each bolt just to make sure it didn't back off.
I've occasionally dealt with issues that arose from bolts backing out.
A little Locktite is just a drop of insurance against that. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4593_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4594_small.jpg)
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11. |
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Using suitable bearing
driver (another piece of pipe for me), I drove the front cone and roller onto front output shaft. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4595_small.jpg) |
12. |
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Place thrust washer on
front output shaft.
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13. |
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Place front output
shaft shift rod detent spring in shift rod housing. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4596_small.jpg) |
14. |
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Start sliding the housing onto the
front output shaft shift rod and place poppet ball on top of spring and
depress into housing with a punch as you slide the shift rod past the
poppet ball. Tricky! You may have to tilt
the transfer case to slide
interlock to the right. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4597_small.jpg) |
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![](images/dana20/Img_4600_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4601_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4602_small.jpg) |
![](images/dana20/Img_4598_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4599_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4603_small.jpg) |
15. |
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Slide rear output shaft
shift rod into housing far enough to retain poppet ball and interlock pin.
If you can't get past the interlock pin, you have to slide the front shift
rod out one click. I did this with a hammer and a punch, then slide
the interlock pin over. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4605_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4606_small.jpg)
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I used a punch to hold the poppet ball in
place while sliding the shift rod down past the poppet ball. Again,
tricky.
Watch you don't lose the ball if it slipped off the punch! This
is where the towel comes in handy. Things don't roll well on a
towel.
![](images/dana20/Img_4609_small.jpg) |
![](images/dana20/Img_4604_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4607_small.jpg)
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16. |
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Place large front
output gear in case. |
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17. |
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Position rear output
shaft shift rod with countersunk hole up and fork engaged in front output
shaft sliding gear. Rotate rod 1/4-turn counterclockwise. (to get past
poppet ball)
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18. |
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Position and hold shift
fork in case and push shift rod through fork.
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19. |
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Rotate shift rod
1/4-turn clockwise and align countersunk hole in shift rod with hole in
shift fork. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4611_small.jpg) |
20. |
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Install setscrew and
tighten to 14 foot-pounds torque. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4612_small.jpg) |
21. |
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Install housing
attaching bolts and tighten to 28 to 30 foot-pounds torque. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4613_small.jpg) |
22. |
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Teralow suggests you attach a dial indicator
to shift rod housing to check front output shaft bearing adjustment,
then... |
![](../../../tech/images/img-5-s.gif)
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23. |
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Pry shaft to extreme
rear position and set indicator to zero. |
24. |
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Then pry shaft forward and
read indicator. End play should be 0.001 inch to 0.003 inch which can be
adjusted by changing the rear bearing cover shims. |
25. |
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The next step is to assemble intermediate
gear rollers and spacers with heavy grease to prepare them to be inserted
into the case. The primary way I know of to
pack the intermediate gear with the new rollers and spacers is to use a
dowel rod that is just as wide as the intermediate gear itself. This
is placed inside the intermediate gear and rollers and spacers are
inserted and packed with heavy grease to hold them in place.
The diameter of the dowel rod is approximately as
wide as the intermediate shaft itself. I hunted around the shed for
a donor garden tool and found an old rake that had a handle that was
approximately the right width. I then hacked off a piece at the
right length. I forget what the length and diameter was but you can
measure this from your intermediate gear and intermediate shaft.
I'd like to say that I used this ugly hunk of
metal to the right. It's a slug that was shot out of an A-10
Warthog. I got it from the Blue Angels at the Reading Air Show years
ago. It was the right diameter but it was just a hair too long to
clear the thrust washers. I didn't want to grind the slug down so I
used the dowel rod instead.
...anyway.... |
![](images/dana20/Img_4614_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4615_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4618_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4617_small.jpg)
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You have three spacers
and a pack of roller bearings. Start by
placing the dowel rod into the intermediate gear and packing some grease
into the opening around the dowel. Press a washer into the grease,
around the dowel. Add more grease.
Then start pressing needle bearings into the
grease, pushing the washer down slowly. I believe the magic number
of needle bearing is 24. There should be NO gaps between the needle
bearings.
With 24 in, add more grease then another washer.
Add more grease and then repeat the step above and
press 24 more needle bearings into the grease.
Follow this up with a little more grease and the
last washer.
Before you lower this into the case, MAKE SURE the
dowel is not protruding beyond the intermediate gear. It has to
slide past the thrust washers and it's a tight tolerance. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4616_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4619_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4620_small.jpg) |
26. |
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Next place the intermediate gear
thrust washers in case the with tangs (tabs) aligned with grooves in case.
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![](images/dana20/Img_4622_small.jpg) |
![](../../../tech/images/note.jpg) |
NOTE: Thrust
washers fit in case with tangs aligned with grooves in case. Rear
washer can be held in place by starting intermediate shaft into
case. Hold front washer in position with heavy grease.
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27. |
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Lower and position the intermediate
gear in case.
Using a plastic dead-blow mallet, drive intermediate
shaft into intermediate gear. Start from the back of the case and
drive the shaft so the keyed end is out. Position the shaft so the
intermediate shaft lock plate will align with the threaded hole in the
case. Forget about rotating it later. It won't happen.
Align it first before driving it in.
Driving the shaft in is tough work. DO NOT
use a metal hammer unless it's one of those lead hammers specifically
designed to do this. A metal BFH like a 5 pound steel mallet will
damage the shaft. It got pretty tough and I ended up using a piece
of wood against the shaft and I'd strike the piece of wood with a heavier
hammer but not hit the shaft itself directly. It helps to brace the
case from behind as you drive the shaft in.
As you drive the intermediate shaft into the case,
the dowel rod will be driven out, leaving the bearings in place.
Eventually I was near the end of the shaft. At this point a
rubber o-ring goes on the shaft. and I continue to drive the shaft in.
This of course splits the o-ring leaving a thin sliver of rubber in my
hand. Hope it don't leak.
![](images/dana20/Img_4628_small.jpg) |
![](images/dana20/Img_4623_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4625_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4624_small.jpg)
![](images/dana20/Img_4626_small.jpg)
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28. |
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Install intermediate
shaft lock plate, lockwasher, and bolt. Tighten bolt to 14 foot-pounds
torque.
![](images/dana20/Img_4781_small.jpg)
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![](images/dana20/Img_4627_small.jpg)
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29. |
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Install rear bearing
cap assembly using a new gasket, and slide rear output shaft through
gears. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
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30. |
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Install front yoke
seal.
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31. |
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Install front propeller
shaft yoke and tighten to 100 foot-pounds torque.
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32. |
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Install bottom cover
and gasket. Tighten bolts to 14 foot-pounds torque.
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33. |
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Install the new seals. I used a small
piece of pipe to drive the seals on. The flat side goes out, with
the hollow side with the spring around the seal inward. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4785_small.jpg) |
34. |
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For the larger output seal, I used a large
piece of exhaust pipe to drive the seal on. |
![](images/dana20/Img_4786_small.jpg) |
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