The output shaft seals were removed after removing the yokes and the new seals were pressed in using the throwout bearing of the old clutch which fit nicely over the seal's outer edge.  I used a hammer to gently tap the seal into place.

Seal is pressed in and ready for the yoke.

Next up was the small seals around the shifting rods.  Again I removed them with a small regular screw driver and this time I pressed them in with a deep socket.

  
Next I removed the bottom plate again and cleaned out any debris that may have gotten in to the case and cleaned the cover plate.

To the right is the seal that goes between the adapter and the T-18A.  Both surfaces were cleaned and coated with the blue stuff, the seal stuck in place and then the Dana 20 was bolted to the adapter.

    
Below are some shots of shortening the shifting linkage for the Dana 20. I actually did some of this before bolting the Dana 20 to the adapter.  It was tough getting the shifter housing off of the tub but a little heat applied to the tube and a pipe wrench on the shifter housing and it came off.  I wouldn't recommend applying force to the shifter itself to twist the housing off.  Instead put a pipe wrench on the cast housing to twist it off.
   

First thing was to figure out where I wanted to put the shifter relative to the T-18A's shifter.  I ended up rounding off the shorted amount to 3 inches (easier math) and cut that much off the tube that braces shifter to the Dana 20.  Then I drilled out the new holes in the tube by slipping on the shifter housing and lining it up as straight as possible again and marking the spots where to drill and removing the housing again.  Then I drilled the tube out using the size drill bit as it was before (old holes).  I didn't drill it out all the way though.  My thinking was that the way the bolt ends were shaped it would be better to allow the end of the set bolt to sink into the tube and make it's own hole as to assure a tight fit.  It was at this point that I replaced the seals in the Dana 20 and bolted it up to the adapter. 
   

Next up was to shorten the linkage rods.  I've seen some people cut and weld these rods (as well as the connecting pipe) but I chose to cut, reshape and drill out the male end of the linkage with an angle grinder.  It wasn't that difficult.  I just took my time and measured everything many times over to be sure I was right on.

Here's a comparison of an old set and the new shortened set of linkage.

Shifter housing, ready to go on.  I had cleaned and inspected it prior to this point.

When the Tub was lowered onto the frame, the Dana 20 stick shift off of a J-20 Pickup didn't quite line up with the Jeep's stock opening.  Three options: Cut the opening, modify the stick shift, or find a new shift linkage.  I kind of like the throw of this linkage (plus money is always an issue) so  I decided to modify the stick shift.  So, I cut two stick shifts up and welded an offset piece 3/8" steel to each half as picture to the right.  Worked like a charm.

With a custom gear shift, come a custom cover plate.  I needed to fabricate a cover plate out of something.  After looking around a little, I found some sheet metal of an old PC case that was ready for the scrap heap.  The sheet metal was thin enough to cut with shears and strong enough to use for this application.  A template was cut out of cardboard and then transferred to the sheet metal.  After a paint job and a couple of boots it'll do the trick.

This design took a little bit of work but I ended up with a pretty cool looking cover plate.  The boot on the T-18A is off the shelf from an auto store and the Dana 20 cover plate is a custom fab job using the pieces of the computer case and an old rubber inner tube.  I'm going to do an inverted boot on the Dana 20's shifter.

Project Jeep CJ-7 ~ The Dana 20