Born in Centralia PA," I spent the first few years of my life, as a resident."
"My parents moved from the town when I was still very young." Spending many
summers there on vacation, I lived with my grandparents. "But this is not about
me," it is about the town, and some of the people who lived there, many years
ago.
A brilliant flash of lightning, with a sharp crack, followed by thunder, that
shook the little coal town of Centralia Pennsylvania to it's very foundations. A
summer evening storm, in the year of 1924, making it's way across the mountains.
Suddenly, through the sound of the beating rain, came long blasts from the steam
whistle on the big colliery on the side of the mountain, rising above the town.
The lightning had struck something and started a fire. As the storm passed, the
clouds began to part, and the stars appeared, among them was a moving light, and
the sound of a motor. The mail had to go through, and the pilot of a small
bi-plane was doing his best to bring that about. Guided by beacons in the
valleys, he followed the storm to his destination.
The whistle on the colliery sent many messages to the citizens of the town,
day and night. Time to start work in the morning, time for dinner at noon, the
big meal of the day in those times. Time to quit work, fires, and rapid blasts,
signaling a problem in the mine. Operated by the Centralia Mining Company, the
colliery and mine were the heart of the town. They provided employment for a
large portion of the population. A tall wooden tower with low buildings
clustered around it's bottom, provided an area to refine the coal. A slender
sloping structure extended from near the top of the tower to the ground, and
into the mine. A narrow gage track on it enabled a car attached to a cable, to
be raised from and lowered into the mine. An uncle of mine, Irv Bryson operated
the machinery in the top of the tower. All day long there was a chug chug chug
sound, and loud squeal, as the car reached the top and emptied it's load of
coal. In the colliery or breaker, as it was sometimes called, the coal was
reduced to usable sizes, washed and loaded on cars to be shipped.
On one side of the breaker a huge pile of culm and slate rose against the
mountainside, the waste from the refining process. Persistent exploration of the
pile of slate, could result in finding a fossil, the leaf of a plant, that
existed millions of years ago. On the other side of the colliery, the earth was
gouged from the side of the mountain, to form a large reservoir. Fed by springs,
the water was used to wash the coal, and provided a swimming hole for the youth
of the town. There were frogs in it, and tiny sunfish, that could be caught with
a bent pin on a string, and "I wonder to this day how they got there." The
miners were much better off than in the past, but their job was still dangerous
and dirty. Using small carbide lamps mounted on their caps for illumination,
they drilled holes in the coal. Packing them with dynamite, the anthracite was
blasted from the vein. The Centralia Valley stretches from Shamokin, through
Mount Carmel, and Centralia, it contains one of the largest fields of anthracite
coal in the area with seven billion tons available.
The population of Centralia at that time was about 2200, it was made up of
ethnic groups from Ireland, Lithuania, Poland, England and Germany. Everyone got
along, "I never heard of anyone being robbed," and it was common practice to
leave the doors and windows unlocked. The mountain side to the south is a gentle
slope, and building homes there was not difficult. A Catholic church with it's
cemetery, stood near the top. Below it, houses on small streets on either side
of the main highway dominated the rest of the slope. The side of the mountain to
the north is very steep. Houses built along the winding up hill road were close
together, each one higher than the other. The Lithuanian church, still there
today, with it's onion shapped dome, stands near the top of the hill. There is a
small plateau about one third of the way up the side of the mountain where
houses were built on flat ground. The water supply for the town was pumped over
this mountain from a reservoir in the pristine Brush Valley on the other side.
A railroad owned by the Reading Company, ran along the base of the north
mountain, making it's way through Centralia toward Locust Summit. There was no
station because this line carried nothing but coal or freight. The main road
intersection in the town was shaped like a T. Coming from Ashland to the south,
the road at the base of the slope made a left turn leading to Mount Carmel. On
the left side of the road there was a Methodist church, and beyond that the
school. Small streets intersected this main street with houses on both sides,
making up the major portion of the housing in the town. Straight ahead, the road
climbs up the steep mountain to the little town of Aristes on top. West of
Centralia, there was an area where part of the mountain had been stripped for
coal, leaving a deep trench filled with pools of water. Most of the business's
in the town were clustered around the intersection. There was Mays drug store,
where you could obtain a great ice cream soda or a dish of delicious cherry
custard ice cream. Then came a saloon, suffering through the days of
prohibition. Next there was a candy and ice cream store, operated by the
McCullion's. Across the street half way between the intersection and the
railroad, my paternal grandfather, A.E.Fetterman, ran a general store. The
shelves and counters were loaded with everything under the sun. The living
quarters in back and above the store is where my grandmother Sarah held sway,
with the help of my aunt Grace and cousin Jean. Holiday visits were enhanced by
her apple dumplings, and special sauerkraut and pork. A barn in the back of the
property, once used to shelter horses, now housed a Reo delivery truck. The
alley in back of the property, was dominated by a belligerent gander, whose sole
purpose was to intimidate little boys. Half way up on the south mountain slope,
my aunt Irma and her brood, Irene, Bob and Grace, had a home on a small street.
Moving across the railroad tracks to the north, the fire house stood on the
right side of the road and just above it, the Mammoth Store. Operated by the
Riley family, it provided the people in the area with clothing, furniture,
hardware, fresh meat and cheese, dispensed by Christopher Small. On the second
floor my maternal grandfather, David E. Keller had a shop where he worked as a
plumber and tinsmith. Along with his partner, George Jones, my maternal
grandmother's cousin, they took care of the plumbing needs of the town. As a
tinsmith, my grandfather made many utensils for the people of the town. One of
his specialties was a copper container he made for the miners. The utensil was
oval in shape, about four by six inches and ten inches high with a neck on top
to accommodate a cork. The miners used them to carry their tea or coffee when
working in the mine. Another special container he made, was the shape of a large
bucket made of copper with a long wooden handle. This utensil called a" Honey
Bucket," was used by the men, who cleaned out the privies in the town. He would
never allow these to be brought in for repair and made his customers buy a new
one.
My grandfather's home was situated on the north mountain plateau. The house
was surrounded by a flower, and vegetable garden. There was an apple, cherry and
plum tree on the property, and a chicken coop in the back. Inside the home, my
grandmother with the help of Bertha, my grandfather's sister, took care of the
household chores. At dinner time she enticed everyone to the table with her
snitz and kenepp and huckleberry duff. At times during the summer when the
family gathered, a picnic was in order. A trip to a grove in Maysville was the
place to go. An open trolley called a "breezer" was the highlight of the trip,
the pleasant flow of air invigorated all. Two elderly spinster ladies, Gert and
Agnes Faringer lived across the street from grandfathers house, they supplied
the town with their special baked goods. On a side street in the same area, the
Zimbos had a candy store. There, for ten cents you could buy enough candy to
last a week. Once a week, a farmer by the name of Teeple came to town. His truck
was loaded with fresh vegetables, ham, frankfurters, and bologna. He also
carried milk, cream, and smearcase, called cottage cheese today. The Mount
Carmel Item was the newspaper of the day, and was eagerly awaited by all for
it's national and local coverage of the news.
Living in the town of Aristes on the north mountaintop, the Kostenbauders my
paternal grandmother's relatives, provided a service for the surrounding towns.
During the frigid winters on the mountaintop, ice was harvested from a large
spring fed pond they owned. The ice was stored in a shed, and covered with
sawdust, providing ice for the area during the summer.
Across the street from the firehouse in Centralia, there was a vacant strip
of land, the natives of the town used it to pasture their cows and goats. All
day long the clank of the a cow bell and the tinkle of the bells on the goats,
filled the air. There were others occupying the area, the belligerent gander
took time from his watch in the valley, to bring his flock there for a meal of
weeds and grass. Small white butterflies fluttered among the Canadian thistle,
the vines of the morning glory, and fragrant honeysuckle. Bees, hummingbirds,
and a small yellow gold finch, resembling the canary my grandmother had in a
cage, flitted among the plants. Crossing this pasture required the agility of a
ballet dancer to, avoid the cow flops.
In late May and early June, the mountains around Centralia were covered with
blooming mountain laurel, the State of Pennsylvania flower. As summer approached
July, the native huckleberry, a cousin of the blueberry, made it's ripe
appearance. Pickers flocked to the hills, at thirty-five cents a quart, one
could make a little money on the side. Recipes popped from the mind or were
retrieved from some nook or cranny for immediate use. "I never noticed," but
some said that during these times, when entering the town, one could smell the
baking huckleberry pies. Another highlight this time of the year was the block
party held by the Fire Company, lots of games and good things to eat. My
favorite was the hot-dog smothered with fried onions, at 15 cents it was hard to
beat, and "I can still taste them to this day".
As evening settled over the town, the arc lights came on, dispelling the
shadows accumulating on the intersections. The insects of the night appeared,
mesmerized by the brilliance of the light, they fluttered and circled it all
night long. As the darkness increased, a chorus began a chorus of a hundred
barking dogs, communicating with each other until sunrise. As the night
progressed, another sound commenced, a chugging sound, becoming louder and
louder, surpassing the sound of the barking dogs. Now a clattering and loud
chugging sound reverberated across the valley. Rattling the dishes in the
cupboards of the houses situated near the railroad, and waking the soundest
sleeper. It was the coal train, fighting a two-percent grade up the Centralia
Valley from Shamokin to Locust Summit. Four powerful steam engines, two pulling
and two pushing, a hundred cars between, each loaded with fifty tons of gleaming
anthracite. There was a lull, as the leading engines passed around the bend. It
did not last, as the pushers entered the area, the din commenced again,
gradually fading away as they disappeared, leaving the rest of the night to the
dogs.
The Fourth of July was a glorious time in Centralia, and "I thought about it
all year long." From dawn to dusk, explosions sounded throughout the valley.
There was the noise of tiny fire crackers, set off by the string, the the louder
flash crackers, and louder still the five incher's and cherry bombs. There were
few injuries if any, because everyone was an expert. As evening descended upon
the town, the real show began. There was no need for a community program, the
community was already involved. Sky rockets, Roman candles, and aerial displays,
filled the sky. Off on the mountaintops, bright flashes appeared, and a few
seconds later, the sound of loud explosions. The miners of the town were adding
to the celebration by setting off sticks of dynamite. As the celebration, with
it's sights and sounds, came to an end, the people of the town, happy but tired
went to bed, dropping of to sleep, regardless of the sounds of the night.
It was late afternoon, the day before Christmas in Philadelphia. It had been
snowing all day, as an early winter snowstorm swept into the area. In the
Reading Terminal, a long string of passenger cars stood coupled to a large black
steam engine. Panting like some huge animal, with smoke swirling from it's stack
toward the ventilated roof of the terminal. It was ready to take on the storm
outside, and carry the "coal-crackers" to their destinations. Anyone who lived,
or had lived in the coal regions, was called a "coal-cracker", whether they had
anything to do with the mines or not. This was the annual Christmas excursion to
that region, dropping passengers off at various coal towns along the way. To
name some, there was Port Clinton, Schuylkill Haven,
Pottsville, Tamaqua, Shenandoah, Mahanoy City, Frackville, Ashland, Gordon,
Mount Carmel and Shamokin. Some of these towns had large railyards with hundreds
of cars, each filled with fifty tons of coal waiting delivery. Inside the train,
it was cozy and warm, with the steam from the boiler of the engine rattling
through the radiators. After several hours travel, and dropping passengers off,
the train stopped in Ashland PA, two stops from it's termination in Shamokin.
Leaving the train, the passengers who wanted to to get to Centralia, had a
pleasant surprise. Standing there waiting, was a team of horses, hooked to a
large sleigh. Normally a jitney was used to make this trip, but the snow was too
deep for it. Piling aboard, covered with blankets, and accompanied by the jingle
of bells on the horses, the group was carried up and over the mountain to
Centralia.
"My summer vacations in Centralia came to an end," when my paternal
grandfather bought a farm along Catawissa creek, several miles above Catawissa
PA. From that time on "I spent my vacations there," with my cousins Jim, Will,
Jean, and Lois, working as a farm hand.
"The times I have attempted to describe ", may not have been the best of
times for Centralia, but they were certainly better than today. To a young boy,
oblivious of the depression in this country and abroad, they were the greatest
of times, with memories that will be cherished "as long as I live."
The story of the demise of Centralia has been told many times, but it is not
yet over. Many attempts have been made to put out the fire in the mine, without
success. Flooding the mine was a failure, with temperatures in the confined
areas of the mine reaching 1000 degrees, water induced immediately turned into
steam. The latest plan being considered is to strip the mine and expose the
fire. Since many parts of it are very deep, 500 to 800 hundred feet, stripping
it will result in the creation of huge holes. This will completely destroy the
area where what remains of Centralia now exists, and any semblance of the little
town will be gone forever.
Written and Contributed by:
Robert Keller Fetterman
Xmas 1999
bobfet@netzero.net
Copyright TXu 926-779