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First step is to gain access to the oil filter. So
you need to remove the factory skid plate (if equipped). If you have
the additional aluminum factory skid, or other aftermarket added skid
plates they may have to come off as well. Four 12 mm bolts hold on
the factory skid plate. |
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After unbolting the 4 12mm bolts, the skid
plate swings down towards the front and unhooks from the frame just below
the radiator cradle. |
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This is the housing that holds the oil
filter element. The base of the oil filter is the cap made of
plastic. You will need a oil filter wrench that fits over this in
order to remove the cap. Toyota refers to this as a "SST" or Special
Service Tool. Using an oil filter wrench will do, just make sure it
is one that fits properly over the plastic cap. Do not use one that
applies pressure to one side in a pinching fashion. You don't want
to damage the cap. |
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From below you see a drain plug. |
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Locate the access panel for the oil pan drain plug.
This |
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Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. The FJ holds
a little over 6 quarts of oil so be sure your oil capture container has
the capacity. Use caution to also remove crush
washer that is on the bolt. |
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Drain the oil. |
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Once the oil is drained, replace the crush washer on the
drain bolt with a new one. If you don't use a new crush washer, it
isn't the end of the world but you may get a small leak. Reinstall
the drain bolt and tighten the drain. I've read the the oil pan
drain plug should be torqued to 28 ft/lbs (38 N/m), however most backyard
mechanics like myself never use a torque wrench to tighten a drain plug,
rather just tighten it to "snug". |
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Next turn your attention to the oil filter housing (or cap
as Toyota calls it). At the base of the aluminum housing is a bolt
that takes a 3/8 socket wrench. Remove this bolt. Be aware
that there is an o-ring below this bolt (oil plug). IF you don't
have a new one, you will need to keep this so don't loose it. The
oil remaining in the oil filter canister should be retained by a spring
loaded stop but be ready to catch some oil. |
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Bolt the removed using a socket wrench with an extension on
it. |
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Next you will want to drain the oil within the oil filter
cap. For this Toyota recommends a "Drain Pipe", which presses the
spring loaded. |
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This is the Drain Pipe included in the Toyota oil filter
box. This Drain Pipe gets pressed up into the threaded hole with a
little force and that releases the oil. However if you don't have
one of these special little tools ... |
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... a 1/4 socket extension with a small socket on it will
work fine. Just put it in a pair of vice-grips to hold it. |
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Then press it up into the hole pushing the spring loaded
v-cone up a little to drain the oil. |
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Next, place your SST (standard issue oil filter wench) on
the base of the cap and turn counterclockwise gently. The
resistance is a large o-ring. Once you back it out, you'll see the
oil filter element. Slide off the filter element. |
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Use a clean rag to wipe the inside of the housing,
specifically where the large o-ring on the cap will be. |
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Gently remove the large o-ring.
Apply a little clean engine oil around on the new o-ring and install the
new large o-ring into the o-ring groove. Make sure the o-ring is
properly seated. into the o-ring groove. |
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Below on the cap is the smaller o-ring. gently remove
that. Clean the o-ring groove. Apply a little clean engine oil
around on the new o-ring and install the new large o-ring into the o-ring
groove. Make sure the o-ring is properly seated and secured into the
o-ring groove. |
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Install the new o-ring by pressing it firmly down into the
o-ring groove. |
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To keep the o-ring in place hand tighten the drain plug
back onto the cap. |
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Next flip the cap over and wipe out any contamination with
a clean rag.
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Install the new element. The element is on a spring
loaded post so it will want to pop up and look like it's not fully seated.
That's ok. The spring pushes it up into the housing onto another
post. |
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Next, hand tighten the cap back onto the aluminum housing. |
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Once hand tightened, use your oil filter wrench to tighten
it the rest of the way. It looks like Toyota put an metal clip on
the cap to indication its position. My guess is it goes just past
the tab on the aluminum housing since that's where it bottoms out. |
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Don't forget! Next tighten that drain plug under the
cap. (Tighten to 9 lb-ft) |
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Fill your crankcase with your favorite
brand of 0W-20 Synthetic motor oil. The manual says that the 2010 FJ
Cruiser take 6.4 quarts when the filter is replace. I put 6 in, ran
the engine, checked it and it appeared to be a full quart down (on level
ground). So I added a half quart, checked it again. Still a half
down, so I ended up putting in a full 7 quarts of oil.
Then re-install your skid plate(s) and your done.
Run the engine for 3 minutes and ensure there is no leaks. |
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