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|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | Ramsey | Warn | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | | | |Model: Ramsey REP8000 | Model: Warn M8000 | |Gear reduction ratio: 210:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 216:1 | |Motor: 1.8 hp, permanent magnet | Motor: 2.1 hp, series wound | |Gear train: 3 stage planetary | Gear train: 3 stage planetary | |Weight: 70 lb. | Weight: 74 lb. | | | | |Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current | | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | |================================ | ================================| | 0 13 20 | 0 29 70 | | 2000 11 90 | 2000 15 180 | | 4000 9 150 | 4000 10 263 | | 6000 6 215 | 6000 7 342 | | 8000 4.5 280 | 8000 3 423 | | | | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | | | |Model: Ramsey RE8000 | Model: Warn M8274 | |Gear reduction ratio: 360:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 134:1 | |Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound | |Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: spur gear | |Weight: 115 lb. | Weight: 110 lb. | | | | |Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current | | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | |================================ | ================================| | 0 15 73 | 0 52 68 | | 2000 7.5 155 | 2000 19 172 | | 4000 5.5 215 | 4000 12 268 | | 6000 4 285 | 6000 8 360 | | 8000 3 345 | 8000 3 435 | | | | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | | | |Model: Ramsey Pro 9000 | Model: Warn XD9000 | |Gear reduction ratio: 138:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 261:1 | |Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.1 hp, series wound | |Gear train: 3 stage planetary | Gear train: 3 stage planetary | |Weight: 85 lb. | Weight: 78 lb. | | | | |Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current | | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | |================================ | ================================| | 0 23 70 | 0 18 70 | | 2000 12 165 | 2000 14 165 | | 4000 8 240 | 4000 10 230 | | 6000 5 305 | 6000 8 290 | | | 8000 6 360 | | 9000 2 400 | 9000 5 400 | | | | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | | | |Model: Ramsey RE10000 | Model: Warn M10000 | |Gear reduction ratio: 470:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 164:1 | |Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound | |Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: 3 stage planetary | |Weight: 130 lb. | Weight: 125 lb. | | | | |Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current | | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | |================================ | ================================| | 0 14 70 | 0 35 80 | | 2000 7 110 | 2000 14 163 | | 4000 5 180 | 4000 9 245 | | 6000 4 230 | 6000 6 322 | | 8000 3.5 280 | 8000 4 400 | |10000 2.5 330 | 10000 3 475 | | | | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| | | | |Model: Ramsey RE12000 | Model: Warn M12000 | |Gear reduction ratio: 470:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 261:1 | |Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound | |Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: 3 stage planetary | |Weight: 135 lb. | Weight: 136 lb. | | | | |Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current | | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | |================================ | ================================| | 0 14 70 | 0 25 80 | | 2000 7 110 | 2000 14 141 | | 4000 5 180 | 4000 8 200 | | 6000 4 230 | 6000 7 252 | | 8000 3.5 280 | 8000 5 302 | |10000 2.5 330 | 10000 4 353 | |12000 2 390 | 12000 3 400 | | | | |-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------| --------HYDRAULIC MOTOR---------------|----------ELECTRIC WINCHES--------- Quiet Motor runs at 85 rpm Louder, runs at 1750 rpm Draws 2 amps under full load Draws up to 475 amps Uses existing power steering pump Requires 2 heavy duty batteries Runs cool continuously Overheats fast and kicks out Light-weight, only 65 pounds Heavier, approx. 160-175 pounds Custom Hose fitting for each application, replaces stock hose (4500 lb minimum burst strength) with AeroQuip Steel Braided Hose (minimum 12,500 lb burst strength) Heavy duty fail safe hydraulic valve, spring loaded to return to power steering mode and designed for continuous use. Power steering will work while operating winch. Winch is completely sealed for underwater use. Hydraulic Motor with 3000 hour life expectancy. 12 ft. remote control. Reversible mounting. -----------------------GENERAL QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS--------------------- Q. How do I select a winch for my truck? A. The most important thing to consider when selecting a winch is whether it is capable of pulling 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight (GVW) of your vehicle (don't forget to take into account that 12% drop in pulling power for every extra wrap of cable on the drum - a 9000lb winch has a line pull of approx. 7000lbs on the third wrap). GVW is the real world weight of your vehicle, i.e. fully loaded. So fill up your gas tank, load up all those off-road goodies, tools, hi-lift jacks, people and go get your vehicle weighed. Q. What do the different winch gear systems mean and what difference will they make when I'm operating them? A. There are three common gearing systems, worm gear, spur gear and planetary gear. They all do the same job, gear down the high speed motor to a low speed high torque winch drum. The gear reduction ratio is by how much the motor's output revolutions are reduced for the spindle. The greater the reduction, the more revolutions the motor has to turn for one spindle revolution and the less the motor has to work for that revolution. The difference in the gearing systems is mainly in their transfer efficiency. The worm gear has a transfer effiency of 35-40%. This causes the winch to be self-braking even under heavy loads, but this means the unit will need a clutch mechanism for free spooling. Worm gears offer the most reduction, very high reliability, built-in braking mechnism, and generally a slower winching speed. The spur and planetary gear systems have efficiencies of 75% and 65% respectively. This means they have a tendency to free spool when loaded, therefore a braking mechanism is needed. Planatary gears are the most common and provide both strength and smooth operation with good resistance to torque loads. Only the WARN M8274 has a spur gear due to its different design characteristics. Q. I've noticed while looking through the manufacturer's catalogs that there are different types of electric motors. What is the difference between series wound motors and permanent magnet motors? Is one better than the other? A. An electric motor basically has two major parts, the stator and the rotor (or armature). It is the job of the stator to produce a magnetic field which will cause the rotor to rotate when an electric current flows through it. In a permanent magnet motor, the stator uses permanent magnets. This means the current drain on the battery is lower than series wound motors (which uses field coils in the stator). Permanent magnet motors are good for light and medium duty winches, but winching time and load has to be carefully monitored as they tend to overheat. Series wound motors are used in heavier duty winches, but tend to cost more. Q. Will my electrical system cope with the extra load of an electrical winch? A. I doubt it, unless you've already hooked up a portable welder. Running a winch is the equivalent of moving your truck on the starter motor! Installation of a winch requires the beefing up of the electrical system. You will require a heavy duty (high output) alternator, capable of at least 100 amps (remember to consider alternator output at idle too, these figures can differ wildly, especially on older models). Fit a high capacity battery, or consider a dual battery setup with some sort of electronic battery management system. If you have other high power devices, sound system, lights etc, you may want to consider a separate high power wiring loom. Also in case of an emergency install an easily accessible emergency power cut off switch and resetable circuit breakers (the winch cables carry enough current to weld 0.25" steel plate). After you have got power to the winch you will need to get it back to the battery. Ensure your grounding system is capable and all connections are clean, this is where most systems waste power. The best grounding systems will use large diameter cables (such as welding cables), the battery negative post connects to the engine block, the alternator ground connects to the engine (usually through its case) and then the frame is connected to the engine using a grounding strap. Remember, compared to your vehicle's other electrical components, winches draw huge amounts of current and can completely drain your battery or overload your alternator in a matter of minutes. Q. I want to be able to winch from either the front or the back of my truck, are the receiver mounted winches any good? A. Receiver mounted winches are very useful, but remember their static pull load is limited by the receiver they fit into. For a class III hitch that is 5000lbs. This is really only suitable for downsize trucks and jeeps. Q. When I buy my winch, what comes with it, and what else do I need to start using it? A. Most winches come with nothing, but some places do a deal which includes the remote cable control and fairlead hawser. You will also need the mounting kit for your vehicle. I strongly recommend you buy the winch manufacturers kit. It has been designed for that winch and vehicle with all safety aspects considered. Home made winch mounts are disasters looking for a place to happen. Your winch will now work, but it is limited to straight line pulls between two vehicles. The addition of the following items will greatly increase your winch's usefulness - Tree saver straps (never wrap a cable directly round a tree, you will kill the tree and kink your cable), a couple of clevis pins, snatch blocks, a choke chain and of course thick leather gloves. Attach tow hooks to the frame on all four corners of your vehicle. Q. What safety equipment will I need? A. You just need your leather gloves and common sense. Never handle the cable with bare hands, a frayed cable can cut skin to the bone. The most common winch accident (according to WARN, so I believe it) is getting your fingers caught in the cable as the last of it winds onto the drum. Always use the remote control cable when winching, and keep every one out of range of the cable . Q. What other safety considerations are there? A. Be aware that a broken winch cable can have enough force in its whiplash to cut through a truck's roof and windshield. Imagine what would happen if the cable met a person. A cable that hits a small tree will tear the tree down. A cable that hits a large tree can wrap tightly around a tree so a person behind the tree is not necessarily safe. Solid objects such as hooks and snatch blocks will fly through anything, including a truck's hood, if a cable breaks. People should stand well out of range of the cable and never in line with the cable. Furthermore, if a cable breaks, the truck being winched may roll downhill, so never stand downhill of any vehicle being winched. Q. Is it common to break a winch cable? Should I carry a spare? A. No to both questions. A properly maintained cable is very reliable (see question about maintenance) and carrying a spare will only increase the risk of damaging it. Winch cable is aircraft grade cable and has a breaking strain of 32,000lbs - much higher than the capacity of the winch. It is much more common for for snatch blocks and anchor points to break because they were poorly rigged up. It is a good idea to drape a heavy cloth jacket over the cable to limit the whiplash if something snaps. If someone has to steer the vehicle being winched, then raise the hood for extra protection. Ensure all anchor points are firm. Q. Is my winch maintenance free? A. Although many people seem to think the answer to this one is yes, the answer is really no! I have met a number of people in the mountains stuck, with a winch that won't work. A little care and preventative maintenance would have ensured its reliability. Your winch should be maintained on a regular basis. Lubricate all required points, inspect all mounts, pulleys, straps and clevis pins, check they are not damaged, or showing signs of fatigue, and are free of moisture. Inspect your remote control lead and electrical system for damage and chaffed insulation. Make sure all terminals are corrosion free and tight. After each trip unspool the cable. Check for kinks and frayed strands (damaged cables should be replaced). Lubricate cable with a chain and cable lubricant (normal grease will collect dirt) and wind back onto drum. Q. What does using a snatch block achieve? A. Basically it doubles your available pulling power (in fact it's an increase of 85% after safety considerations). It will also allow you to perform pulls at an angle to your truck. People are rarely considerate enough to get stuck straight in front of you. Q. When I double up the winch line using the snatch block, where should I attach the return line. A. If the snatch block is attached to another vehicle, which you are trying to free, then the return line should be connected to a third vehicle or tree, to spread the load. If the snatch block is anchored to a tree and you are trying to free yourself, then the return line should be hooked onto your vehicle's frame. DO NOT hook it back on to the winch mount as this will effectively double the load on the mounting plate. Q. What is the best way of anchoring my vehicle when I'm trying to winch another vehicle out of trouble? A. Anchor your vehicle to another vehicle or any other fixed object using your tow strap, tree saver, choker chain etc. The one thing to remember is attach the anchor strap to your vehicle at the same end as your winch, otherwise you will stretch your vehicle's frame.

BASIC TECHNICAL WINCH INFORMATION
THIS INFORMATION IS PROVIDED FREE AND IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE ONLY.

Winches are rated in line pull, and are usually measured pounds, lbs. or Kg.. The rated line pull is with the first layer of wire rope on the winch drum / single layer. There are three basic power supply types of winch. (1.) Low Voltage, = 12v. and 24 volt. (2.) High Voltage, = 110v. to 230 volt. (3.) Hydraulic. Only Low Voltage and Hydraulic winches are suitable for outdoor use. The winch sees only the load, that is to say that the line pull is the amount of force the winch needs to produce to move an object. This would be the figure that would be measured on a strength gauge if one was fitted in series with the line (wire rope). When deciding which model winch to buy, consider the length of wire rope required, as the rated line pull is quoted with the first layer of wire rope on the winch drum. As you winch in the winch becomes less powerful with each layer of wire rope on the winch drum. You should also remember that winch cables never spool onto the winch drum evenly, this results in cable bunching which in turn compounds the problem of layer build up and in turn a loss of pulling power as described below. As a guide for each layer of wire rope on the drum deduct 10% off the rated line pull. e.g. A winch with a line pull of say 6,000 lbs.. will have a line pull of 5,400lbs.. on the second layer, 4,860 lbs.. on the third layer and 4,374 lbs.. on the fourth layer, etc. So if you need to pull 6,000 lbs.. for any distance, you will need a winch with a greater rated line pull to start with. You can effectively double the line pull capacity of a winch, by applying what is called a 'double line'. By using a Snatch Block / Pulley Block, you will double the line pull of the winch, but will halve the winching speed, due to the gearing ratio, this is not usually important and is often safer if you are pulling an abnormal load. However, for every pulley you use there is a frictional loss of approximately 10% per pulley. To effect a true double line, attach the snatch block to the load, wind the wire rope from the winch drum out and around the snatch block pulley, then back and attach the wire rope to a place adjacent to the winch itself. This is a 'Double Line'. To calculated the size of winch you will require to pull your load you will need to know the weight of the item to be winched : Rolling weight or dead weight. Is it on wheels such as a car? Are you pulling a load not on wheels? What type of surface is it being winched over? Sand? Hard-Core etc.? What gradient is there, if any? What distance do you need to winch over? As you can see, there are many factors that have to be taken into consideration when deciding what size and type of winch to buy. We are able to make the calculations for you, and advise and recommend a winch for your particular needs.
*This drawing shows a typical Double Line:*	*A Double Line as used for self recovery using an anchor point such as a tree.*

*Indirect Double Line Pull*
Indirect pulling may be required because of obstacles. The pulley block is attached to the load and the wire rope is attached to an anchor point offset from the direction in which the load is to be moved. Note that this procedure is not recommended unless necessary as the winch pulling power and line speed will decrease as the angle between the wire rope increases.
*Single Line Pull*
	Whilst this configuration uses a pulley block it is only a single line pull and the pulling power will be as the winch line pull rating as described above.

*Lifting:*
Winches are designed as pulling devices and not lifting. Hoists are lifting devices but winches are often used for lifting due usually because £ for lb winches tend to be a lot cheaper than an equivalent hoist. There are four main criteria to be adopted if using a winch for lifting: (1.) X safety ratio. (2.) No Freespool clutch mechanism can be fitted. ( Or it must be removed or disabled ) (3.) A secondary brake must be fitted. (4.) A safety holding chain or device should be fitted if the load is to be suspended. A safety ratio, usually a minimum of a 5:1, must be applied to ensure that the winch will lift its rated load safely. Therefore a load of 1,000 lbs. would require a winch with a line pull in excess of 5,000 lbs taking into account that all winches are rated on the first layer of wire rope cable on the drum as explained above. The amount of safety ratio adopted in your calculations should be confirmed by the regulations covering the use you are adopting, you will need to check this carefully. The winch must not have a freewheel facility. Most winches have a Freespool system fitted as standard, if the winch has such a system then it must be totally disabled or removed. A secondary brake system is also essential. Most winches rely on the gearing alone to act as the brake. However, some models do have a secondary brake such as a drum brake supporting the geared brake, therefore effectively providing a twin braking system. Once the load has been raised, if the load is left suspended, then a safety holding device such as a suitably rated chain should be fitted to secure the load. The load must not be left hanging from the winch in free air. Depending on the lifting configuration, It is good practice and is recommended that when lifting you should use two pulley blocks, one at the top of the lifting tower and one at the base. The winch wire rope should be routed from the winch through the pulley at the base of the tower, up to the upper pulley and then down to the load. Also remember that each pulley / snatch block will reduce the available power by approximately 10% per pulley due to friction losses, these figures must be taken into account when calculating the size / line pull of winch that you will use. Note, that if a roller fairlead is fitted to the winch and the wire rope is routed direct from the winch to a single pulley block mounted at the top of the tower and then down to the load, the wire rope will be bent around the roller fairlead, this small radius will eventually cause damage to the wire rope and is not recommended. If you intend to use a winch for lifting purposes, then you must satisfy yourself that it complies with all health and safety laws, and construction and use law. You should also ensure that it satisfies your insurers requirements. Winches must not under any circumstances be used for the lifting or transporting of people.
We now have two small winches in our range that have been designed for lifting. A typical use being for small vehicle cranes, see our "C" Crane winch range each rated at 1,000lbs.
*Wire Ropes:*
There are different types of wire rope available. The best quality, often referred to as aircraft quality, are of wire core construction, whereas the cheaper types are of nylon core construction. i.e. There is actually a nylon core in the centre of the wire rope, instead of a wire core as in top quality ropes. Then there is the make up of the wire itself, including how many strands of wire there are, this can effect the strength and flexibility of the rope. Make sure that if a hook is attached, the hook is also capable of handling the load, and that it is correctly stamped with a safe working load. All quality wire ropes should come, as ours do, with a test certificate. You may need to produce a certificate for your insurance company. Cheap wire ropes never pay in the long term and can be dangerous. You only get what you pay for. We only supply top quality wire core construction wire ropes together with a test certificate.
Some useful tips:
	NEVER attach the winch cable back onto itself as shown. Always use a sling with a shackle when using a tree. Make sure you use a soft sling to prevent damaging the tree.
It is good practice to use a heavy blanket or jacket over the wire rope. If a rope failure should occur the weight of the cloth will act as a damper and help prevent the broken rope from whipping. A raised vehicle bonnet will also give some protection should the rope break. Also, the blanket acts as a visual warning to bystanders and is likely to prevent them from walking into or tripping over the wire rope. You should always make sure that everyone keeps well back and away from any winching activity. However, in the case of a long distance pull you may not see a person who inadvertently walks towards the wire rope, such a cover will help bring the wire rope to their attention. It is recommended that in such circumstances two operators should be in attendance.

Using Cable Clamps on a Wire Rope.
1. Clamps should be spaced 6 rope diameters apart. 2. Ensure that when forming a loop or fitting a thimble that the first and last clamps are not over tightened so as to damage the rope. 3. Both the nuts on each clamp should be tightened equally. 4. Re-tighten the nuts after use and keep checking them on a regular basis. 5. Make sure that you use the correct type and size of cable clamp. 6. You must use a minimum of three clamps as shown below. 7. Make sure that you fit the clamps exactly as shown below. This is VERY IMPORTANT.

When handling Wire Ropes always wear protective gloves and use a hand saver bar. Check the Wire Rope regularly for any damage or wear. Never use a worn or damaged Wire Rope. Make sure that the Wire Rope is correctly rated for the winch and the load, including any hooks or shackles it is attached to. The Wire Rope should be wound neatly onto the winch drum. Prevent kinks. All Wire Ropes should come with a safety Test Certificate. Wire Ropes can be DANGEROUS if not handled correctly.

IMPORTANT NOTES.
WINCHES MUST NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE USED FOR THE LIFTING OR TRANSPORTING OF PEOPLE.
Training in both the theoretical and practical use of a winch is considered good practice in the interest of health and safety. We can help and advise on staff training.
ONLY COMPETENT AND FULLY TRAINED PERSONS SHOULD USE A WINCH.
To comply with the EC Directive, an Isolator Switch MUST be fitted to all winches.
Always Read The Handbook On Safety Before Using A Winch And Make Sure That You Fully Understand It.
THIS INFORMATION IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE ONLY.
The above information only briefly touches on the principals of winching and is NOT comprehensive. Do Not think you know everything because you have read this.

Should you require any further information then please contact us direct.

All About Winches

Terminology Often Used with Worm Gear Winches: