| |
The following is a great article that
discusses trail driving technique. I found this article on the web
somewhere but I don't have the name of the author, if you wrote this article
send me a note and I will give you credit. Enjoy.
Slippery
conditions can turn a normally easy trail into one that is nearly impassable.
Snow is an obvious cause, but on certain soil types a rain storm can turn the
surface of the soil into something resembling wheel bearing grease.
Driving
techniques and tire requirements are similar for either snow or slippery trail
mud. Wet trails are more easily damaged than dry trails, so Tread Lightly when
it's slippery out.
TIRES, VOIDS, AND LUGS
I'll
start with the most important factor in negotiating slippery trails: Tires. The
void ratio is the key. Void ratio is the ratio of the space between the lugs to
the space used by the lugs. The higher the void ratio the better, for the most
part. A higher void ratio helps the tires clean mud and snow from between the
lugs easier.
Super
Swamper Boggers would seem to be a good tire for a slippery trail because of
their high void ratio, but they have only horizontal lugs on them. While these
tires are good for straight ahead mud runs, the lack of vertical lugs means that
a Bogger tired vehicle may be more prone to sliding sideways in a slippery off
camber situation.
The
tires with the next highest void ratio commonly seen on the trail are Buckshot
Mudders in radial or bias ply and Super Swamper TSL's in radial or bias ply. All
of these tires have a vertical row of center lugs that goes a long way to
prevent unwanted sideways movement of the vehicle. Swamper radials and Buckshot
radials have the advantage of increased flexing and deformation when aired down
due to their radial construction. The flex helps the tires "stick"
better by providing a larger contact patch and the flexing action helps them
clean the mud out of the tread.
There are other
types of mud tires available with BFG MTs and Mud Kings being the most common on
the trail. These are good tires and work well in many conditions, and offer a
much more comfortable ride on the street, but when the mud gets really thick and
sticky these will clog before the Swampers or Buckshots due to the closer
spacing of the tire lugs.
The
best place to see how different tires perform is always going to be under
real-world conditions on a trail ride. I recommend going on a few trail rides
and watching to see what works best in your area before buying. My personal
picks for slippery trail ride conditions where I live (Minnesota) are the Super
Swamper radials or Buckshot radial. Don't forget to air down. The extra flexing
action helps any tread pattern clear out the mud.
DRIVING TECHNIQUES:
Slippery
hill climbs require momentum. When there is a patch of slick mud or smooth ice
half way up the hill you must have enough speed to carry the vehicle over it and
to the next area with some traction. You simply can't idle up a steep hill
coated with mud or snow that's so slippery you can't walk on it.
If
you get part way up a hill and forward movement stops you may find yourself
going sideways or even sliding back down the hill with the tires still trying to
go forward. Don't lock up your tires in this situation. Locking up the tires
will cause you to lose all steering control. Always try to go into reverse and
idle down. You may come down faster than you would like but you will be able to
steer. If things are happening too fast to go into reverse go into neutral or
press in the clutch and try pumping the brakes as you back down (never, ever,
ever stomp on the brakes hard enough to lock up the wheels when in a slide, it
is a sure recipe for disaster).
Don't have the
steering wheel turned too far when pumping the brakes because you may find
traction and cause the vehicle to turn suddenly. If you have slid sideways
across a hillside but are still pointing upwards try pointing your tires back to
the center of the trail and giving it some throttle. Lots of times the vehicle
will move straight sideways across the face of the hill and get you to a safer
place to back down. This will probably not work on an steep off camber hill. (editors
note: Use caution when on any steep or off-camber hill, getting even a little
bit sideways can put you in danger of rolling the vehicle, always try to keep
the jeep pointed straight up and down the hill whenever possible)
If
you find yourself sideways on a hill, or starting to go sideways point your
tires up hill and give it some throttle. This will often straighten you out. If
you manage to get yourself completely sideways, perpendicular to the hill and
feel as though you are about to roll, point your tires downhill and give it some
gas and head down the hill.
The
old off-roaders trick of turning the steering wheel back and forth when forward
progress has stopped will often work when moving through slick mud or climbing a
slippery hill, but sometimes you just end up going sideways across the hill. Be
cautious of its volatile nature when trying this technique.
You
may at times find yourself in the awkward position of having slid backwards down
a hill until a tree stops you. You probably can't drive up or you wouldn't have
slid down. A winch pull is always the best answer. If you have no winch you may
be able to spin the tires while someone pushes the front of your Jeep sideways,
allowing you to make an extremely sharp turn and head back down the hill. Make
sure that the slope of the hill will help push the nose of the vehicle in the
direction you want, don't let someone get pinned between your Jeep and a tree.
If you attempt this move, make sure that you are not going to be in danger of
rolling the jeep, and get the nose of the jeep headed straight down ASAP, using
power as needed so you can control your descent.
Up
or down, your best control is when both axles are perpendicular to the hill. A
good rule of thumb is to send a winch equipped vehicle up first. Otherwise a
stuck vehicle may block the trail completely.
Slippery,
off camber descents present a different challenge. The most common problem is
the back of the Jeep sliding off to the side. Locker equipped vehicles are
especially prone to this. Always keep the Jeep in first gear low range when
descending slippery hills. If the rear starts to slide out give it a little
throttle and it will usually straighten out. If necessary, and if there is
enough room, steer the front in the direction the rear is sliding. This will
keep the front directly below the rear and keep you in control.
Wet
rocks can be tricky, especially if there is some mud thrown into the spaces
between the rocks. I like it when there is a nice 12" diameter laying log
at a 45 degree angle to the trail to hop over in the middle of the rocks, just
to add a little more challenge. For this situation be aware that you will slide
off one or more of the rocks and pick your line accordingly. Use the rocks to
your advantage if possible. For example put the sidewall of a tire against the
side of a rock to hold you and keep you from sliding sideways. Don't cross
fallen trees at an angle. When you get to that downed tree in the middle of the
rocks, if possible, have your jeep pointed in such a way as to bring both front
tires over it at the same time. Bump it a little (more gas), rather than risk
getting only one tire up and being hung up on a spring or the differential. If
you get one front tire up and the other is on the ground, back down, get your
axle parallel to the tree, and try again.
Rutted
trails can be a problem for vehicles with small tires, but ruts can be a help in
slippery off camber situations. If your tires are big enough to run in the ruts
you will probably not slide sideways off the hill. If you have smaller tires try
running with just one set of tires in a rut if the trail is wide enough. The
uphill rut is usually a better choice. If you straddle a rut in a slippery
situation it is just a matter of time until you slide in. If you are lucky your
left tire slid into the right rut or vice versa. If you are unlucky you are
probably squarely stuck in a rut made by someone with much bigger tires and in
need of a tow strap or highlift jack.
Sometimes
you will find a trail that has 2 tracks that have been used by the trucks ahead
of you. These often become icy or slippery on a hill climb or descent. Try going
to the side a bit to get some fresh snow or untrod dirt under your tires.
Deep
mud and snow:
Generally
deep mud holes have ruts in the bottom and different parts of the bottom may be
shallower and deeper, firmer and softer. Poking around the bottom with a stick
may help you find shallow spots, but the best technique is to observe the
vehicle in front of you.
In
a wet mud hole the Jeep in front of you makes waves. Look at the bottom of the
wave to see if you can find a shallower part to drive through. Sometimes a wave
rolling across a mud hole will expose a shallow shelf you can get your wheels
on. If the guy in front of you gets stuck and you have a similar or lesser
equipped Jeep, don't follow his example. In a dryer, stickier mud hole it is
difficult to judge how deep it is without driving out into it. The best bet is
to go slowly and stop spinning your tires if you can no longer make forward
progress. Put the Jeep in reverse and saw the steering wheel back and forth.
Many times the side of the tire will bite and push you back out. Stay in your
ruts as you back out. This techniques often works well for wet sticky snow too.
The
fine art of hooking up a tow strap while stuck in the mud is often learned out
of necessity. Anyone can simply hop out into the 30" deep mud (you can tell
how deep by how much of your tire is showing), but a clever person can get to
the front of their Jeep without getting excessively muddy. With soft doors
simply lift the door off the Jeep, place it in the back and step out onto the
front tire while clinging to the windshield. From there flop onto the hood and
crawl to the front of the Jeep. Assume a sitting position on the hood with your
feet on the bumper and try to either throw one end of your strap to someone
standing at the edge of the mud or try to catch the end of theirs. If you happen
to be on shore it may be fun to throw short the first time so the catcher has to
grab the muddy end of the strap as it comes flying at them. Use common sense and
don't throw a strap with a shackle or metal tow hook attached to it (better yet,
Never even bring a strap with an attached tow hook to a trail ride - they are
extremely dangerous).
The
idea here has been to give you a few ideas to help you make it through with the
minimum impact to the trail, your vehicle and yourself.
These
are general guidelines that often work, not hard and fast rules.
Every
vehicle and situation is different.
Use
common sense, and don't compromise safety.
When
in doubt winch it out.
Tread
lightly!
Do
your part to keep 4 wheeling trails open by 4 wheeling responsibly.
|
|
